Speciality Food September 2025

50 @specialityfood “Bobolink Dairy – natural cheesemaking” R ecently, I visited Bobolink Dairy & Bakehouse in New Jersey to immerse myself in the world of artisanal cheesemaking, where every step is guided by a deep respect for nature. My first journey into American cheese began at The Cheese Mongers Invitational in 2023, where I was introduced to exceptional cheeses and discovered the vibrant energy of the competition. It was through Brett Sacks of SlowGrown Farm, inspired by his own time at Bobolink, that I learned about this unique dairy. Notably, Bronwen Percival fromNeal’s Yard Dairy had also started her farmstead journey here. Eager to see the farm firsthand, I contacted Jonathan and Nina White and arranged a visit. After a long drive through New York, I arrived at their historic 1833 farmhouse late at night. The kitchen, the heart of their home, welcomed me with outstanding cheese and beer. The Baudolino Tomme, in particular, left a lasting impression with its earthy, creamy taste. The next morning, I awoke to the sight of bobolinks in the fields, a testament to the farm’s chemical free methods that support biodiversity. Jonathan and Nina have become well known advocates for sustainable agriculture, even appearing on “No Reservations” with Anthony Bourdain. Their approach, rooted in care for the land, demonstrates that farming in harmony with nature enriches both people and planet. To truly understand what sets Bobolink Dairy apart, it’s essential to explore their commitment to regenerative, traditional agricultural practices. TheWhites prioritise animal welfare; their pasture raised cows graze freely on nutrient rich grasses and are never given JAMES GRANT NO2 POUND STREET growth hormones or unnecessary antibiotics. This practice yields high quality milk that captures the character of the local landscape. Throughout my stay, I observed the cheesemaking process up close, from dawn milking to carefully stirring the curds. Everything is done by hand, blending precision and intuition. In the aging room, wheels of cheese mature on wooden shelves, each developing its own unique flavour. It is easy to see why aspiring cheesemakers come here to learn; the sense of artistry and respect for the craft is unmistakable. Conversations with Jonathan and Nina revealed their philosophy of working with natural cycles. Rotating pastures not only nourishes the soil but also encourages wildlife, like bobolinks and native pollinators, to thrive alongside dairy production. This interconnectedness is visible across the farm, where healthy flora and fauna flourish in tandem with daily routines. Meals at Bobolink Dairy were simple and memorable: slices of crusty bread with rich raw milk butter, wedges of aged cheese, and locally brewed beer. Evenings were spent discussing the joys and challenges of artisan cheesemaking and the community built around real food produced with integrity. What struck me most was the Whites’ genuine hospitality and passion. Visitors are welcomed not just as customers, but as fellow explorers eager to reconnect with traditional foods and sustainable practices. Their story, and the cheeses they craft, show that small farms can thrive by placing stewardship and sustainability at the core of their mission. Leaving Bobolink Dairy & Bakehouse, I felt inspired by the care and dedication that define every aspect of their work. Their example proves that mindful farming and cheesemaking can nourish people and the land. I look forward to returning, sharing more stories and flavours from this special place, and encouraging others to seek out experiences that celebrate our vital connection with nature. Get behind Neal’s Yard Dairy territorials campaign Cheesemongers, food producers and chefs in the UK are being urged to back a campaign launched by Neal’s Yard Dairy. A champion of British artisan cheeses for nearly five decades, the retailer started its Eat Themor Lose Them initiative to highlight the importance of the nation’s heritage territorial cheeses, while bolstering support for the farmers whomake them. “Our classic British territorial cheeses continue to face decline,” said a spokesperson fromNeal’s Yard Dairy. “Despite their deep roots in British farming , andmethods honed over centuries, only a handful of small-scale makers remain – their work increasingly overshadowed by the growing popularity of continental styles.” Neal’s Yard is working with chefs across the UK, who are actively using and talking about these cheeses. “And we’ve collaborated with The Kernal Brewery to brew a porter ideal to pair with British territorials, as well as industry events to bring together some members of the food community to brainstorm ideas around increasing sales and awareness of these cheeses.” The retailer says these kinds of cheeses are at their best served at room temperature, and they find customers fall in love with them at the counter when sampling. Why not up your own territorials game this season with special tasting events, promotions and pairings? Special anniversary for historic cheese family. “With its mellow, buttery flavour and unique double-pressing method, the Wiltshire Loaf is a nod to a time when cheese was made with instinct, patience and a deep connection to land and livestock.” The semi-hard cow’s milk cheese was originally pressed into a shallow, loaf-like shape, made onWiltshire farms using local dairy, typically during the spring and summer flush. Brinkworth Dairy’s version stays true to the traditional method, while elevating quality through high-welfare, closed-herdmilk, and small-batch artisan craftsmanship. “We wanted to create a cheese that truly tells the story of this place,” said Ceri. “The Wiltshire Loaf is humble, honest and quietly beautiful. It reflects the land, the seasons, and the slowmagic of milk turning to cheese.” Each batch is clothbound and aged for eight to 12 weeks, resulting in a firm rind, pale interior, and flavour that deepens with each bite. “It melts like a dream,” Ro said, adding, “In an era when consumers are increasingly seeking authenticity, provenance and sustainability, the Wiltshire Loaf hits all the right notes. It’s part of a broader movement to revive regional cheeses that once thrived in local food cultures before industrialisation pushed them aside. As more chefs andmongers discover its quiet charm, the Wiltshire Loaf is poised not just for a comeback, but a rightful place among Britain’s most-treasured traditional cheeses.” The Real Cheese Project, spearheaded by James Grant of No.2 Pound Street and Sam and Amy Brice of Freshly Ground PR, has revealed the finalists for People’s Cheese 2025. For the past two years, The Real Cheese Project has held live online cheese tastings in the autumn, with the public encouraged to vote for their favourite. Territorials and Cheddars have already taken the spotlight, but 2025 is the turn of Britain’s newest cheeses. Sponsored by Chiswick Cheese Market, hundreds of people took part in round one of the competition at the market in June, tasting 20 newly launched cheeses from across the UK, landing on four finalists to be judged by the public on 24th September. In the mix are Crottin-style raw lactic goats’ milk cheese, Yr Afr, made at Wacky Wedge in Bethesda, NorthWales, soft lactic added-cream cow’s milk cheese, Ooh La La, made at Highland Fine Cheeses, a goats’ milk version of Cornish Brie, Nanny Gywnn, made by the Cornish Cheese Company, and hard, washed rind rawmilk goats’ cheese, Redlap, from Stone Tree Dairy. The live final will be hosted by comedian and cheese fan, Marcus Brigstocke. People’s Cheese boxes are available to order now, with 5% of profits going into a ‘real cheese support fund’, donated to initiatives seeking to protect, develop and progress real cheese in the UK. British public invited to vote for best new cheese As we approach the 250th anniversary of prolific English author, Jane Austen, there’s time to reflect on a historic cheese she seemed to take a shine to –Wiltshire Loaf. In her dramedy, Emma, Austen describes Mr Elton as being delighted to have been offered the cheese at a fancy party. With her birthday falling this December, and celebrations to mark the author’s enduring appeal throughout the winter, now’s a good time to order in and promote Wiltshire Loaf – revived by Ceri Cryer at Brinkworth Dairy 20 years ago. “This traditional British cheese, once a stable of farmhouse tables andmarket stalls in the 18th and 19th centuries, had vanished from production by the mid-20th Century,” said Ceri’s mother, Ro Collingborn, of the cheesemaking Collingborn Last chance to enter Young Cheesemonger of the Year Entries are still open for the Academy of Cheese’s Young Cheesemonger of the Year competition. Young mongers from across the global cheese industry can apply until 21st September, with the final taking place at the World Cheese Awards in Bern, Switzerland on Thursday 13th November. Contestants will participate in five rounds of judging at Festhall in Bern, with challenges including cheeseboard preparation, weighing and wrapping, cheese identification, pairing with Peter’s Yard crackers, and finally, the MasterRind quiz. The overall winner will take home the coveted Young Cheesemonger of the Year trophy, a Boska Pro Cheese Tools Kit, a place on the Academy of Cheese Level Two certification course, and an invitation to judge at the World Cheese Awards 2026. Tracey Colley, founding director of the Academy of Cheese, said, “Across the world, the skilled profession of cheesemonger is gaining recognition as an exciting career option for young people. With the support of our main sponsors, Peter’s Yard, we’re here to celebrate that, and addmomentum to this movement.”