Speciality Food - October 2025

three years ago, but says what has struck himmost about the cheese industry, apart from its importance in British culture, is the kindness he’s experienced. That is something he thinks should absolutely be celebrated. “It’s the only industry I’ve ever known where people are so completely supportive of one another. In other industries competitors are competitors. You like it if something goes wrong for someone else. But in cheese, if something goes wrong, Retailers across the UK are rightly proud of our dairy heritage and ever-growing collection of cheeses. Speciality Food discovers more about this passion, and what’s attracting customers to the counter COMMENTATORS EMMANUELLE METZ METZ CHEESEMONGER PAUL DONOUGHUE GREEN & LOVELY THEBESTOF BRITISH @specialityfood 32 D ainty, ripple-edged goats’ cheeses withmousse-like pastes. Fudgy blues, mottled with painterly waves of penicillium roqueforti. Dense, savoury, brothy Cheddars. The cheese landscape in Britain is remarkable. A constantly evolving patchwork of more than 800 varieties (and counting). Where 30 or 40 years ago, the average deli or high street cheese shop would look to the Continent to furnish its selection, drawing upon the great Bries of France, and enormous wheels of Parmesan from Italy, supplemented by a smattering of West Country Cheddars, today the tables have turned. Britain’s vast and unique collection continues to take centre stage. An edible slice of history One of the biggest draws to British cheese, for both cheesemongers and customers, is its heritage, old and new. “I always say, whenever I do tastings, that cheese is such a big part of our history, culture, nature and science, all together in one bundle,” says Peter Pooley of Cheese and Bees in King’s Lynn. “We’ve beenmaking cheese here since at least the Roman times, and the sheer variety we do is just phenomenal – especially when you think about the fact cheesemakers “They have their own names and their own vocabulary. I really think we should stop saying, ‘it’s like a Reblochon, or it’s like a Brie’, stop comparing British cheeses to Continental ones. Sometimes I hear people saying British cheeses are substitutes for French cheese but I don’t agree with that. They are unique. The uniqueness comes from the grass and the soil right on our doorstep.” Paul Donoughue of Green & Lovely only opened his shop in East Molesey within, Emmanuelle made it her mission to educate as many people as possible. “I was saying to them ‘celebrate your culture, these are your roots’.” In a globalised world, where consumers can easily buy products from the most exotic and far- flung of places, Emmanuelle feels shopping local, and supporting local, homegrown producers is more vital than ever, particularly when it comes to health. “The importance of British cheeses is to bring back the right food on our plate,” she explains. “If you eat something that is made with a slow process, with respect through the chain for native animals, the land, the farmer, that has to be better for you.” Until just five years ago, the cheesemonger says she had no concept of the breadth and quality of British cheese, adding that she’s buoyed by the “vibrant energy” of makers here, and attracted to the fact cheeses in the UK have their own identity. PETER POOLEY CHEESE AND BEES A RETAIL PERSPECTIVE Robert Bowden, UK sales manager at The Fine Cheese Co, gives his take on British cheese ARE CONSUMERS SEEKING OUT MORE BRITISH CHEESE? Where once we were a nation happy with a mild Cheddar or a supermarket Stilton, customers have become more discerning and are seeking out British-made cheeses but with unique character, a story, and something a bit different. There is a lot of enthusiasm around alpine-style cheeses like the excellent Burford from King Stone Dairy, Raclette-inspired cheese like Ogleshield fromMontgomery, and also grass roots cheeses like Yoredale Wensleydale from Curlew Dairy are seeing growth. Why the shift? Partly it’s driven by foodie culture. TV chefs, TikTok cheeseboards, social media and restaurant menus are expanding what people expect from cheese. WHICH CHEESEMAKERS ARE YOU EXCITED ABOUT AT THE MOMENT? King Stone Dairy is quickly making a name for itself with its French-inspired approach and standout new releases like Bibury and Hidcote. Meanwhile, Fen FarmDairy, long known for its beloved Baron Bigod, continues to expand its repertoire with Raedwald, a washed-rind cheese that’s rich and savoury. Whilst there are many others, King Stone and Fen Farm are pushing boundaries with the styles of cheese that they are making, especially with the discerning customer in mind. have been through so much adversity throughout the years for a variety of reasons.” Something Peter personally loves about the industry is the finding and revival of ancient handwritten recipes, which really do point to the past. “For example, Monkland Cheese Dairy in Hereford are making Little Hereford cheese. The recipe went missing and was found in someone’s loft. I think that’s incredible. There could be hundreds and hundreds of unknown cheeses lost in history, and it’s amazing when they get brought back to life.” Reviving these cheese recipes, as they are found, proves a great source of pride for makers, Peter adds, saying he feels an equal sense of pride being able to give customers a taste of the past. “I think these cheeses say something about the British way of not giving in, not giving up.” French native Emmanuelle Metz of Metz Cheesemonger in Farsley naturally has an ingrained affinity with the cheeses of her home country, but has fast fallen head over heels for British varieties, becoming a staunch supporter of the makers working around her in the North of England. She feels part of her ‘calling’ as an independent cheese retailer is to raise awareness of British cheese – how delicious, and how important it is. During a recent Heritage Open Day at the historic mill the shop is based