Speciality Food Magazine -November/December 2025

uplift by 18% between June and August this year, compared to 2024. “Their creamier texture makes them approachable and versatile, appealing to consumers who may be hesitant about stronger styles, but still want depth of flavour.” Montagnolo is a strong performer for both Dylan (who calls it a ‘gateway blue’) and Stephen, who adds that it’s one of George & Joseph’s biggest sellers, apart from at Christmas when scooping Gorgonzola ramps up in demand. “We scoop it into pots, so you get this fantastic bit of theatre at the counter. As soon as one person does it, everyone else wants it as well!” Latching on to the concept of softer blues are Gen Z, who are tentatively stepping into the blue cheese world. Clawson Farms, as part of its five-point business strategy, is heavily putting focus on building brand loyalty with these younger cheese consumers, says CEO Bill Mathieson. In addition to working with influencers such as Aidy Smith (who created a Stilton cocktail that went viral on socials), Bill says the maker is launching new 50g packs to encourage experimentation. “We are also looking at how we evolve our recipe. We’ve done quite a bit of work in the last year or so to make it a little bit creamier and to dull the strength back a bit without doing How to choose blue cheese Pay attention and listen to cheese when you’re buying, says Charlie. As a rule, look for cheeses where the mould is blue to blue-green, not pale aquamarine. “People often forget to look at the curd. If it’s very white it will be too acidic and young. Blue moulds have the job of breaking down the cheese into something creamier. Take them too young and you could encounter a lack of flavour, sourness and, in some cases, bitterness.” Besides checking the ‘blueness’ of blue cheeses, Stephen Fleming, founder of George & Joseph, says you need to inspect their condition. “You can tell a lot about blue cheeses, like Stilton, by the rind,” he explains. “We’ve had instances in the past where the rind is falling away from the cheese. That’s a clear sign something’s not right. And when I cut into the cheese, I expect the paste to be bright, with a good distribution of blue veining or marbling. Sometimes we’ve opened a cheese and there’s not been any blue.” On these occasions, don’t be afraid to go back to your supplier, he urges. “It’s OK to flag it up!” What do today’s consumers want? Blue cheese, it has to be said, is undergoing a bit of a revival at the moment. Alongside soft goats’ and sheep’s milk cheeses, we’re seeing a number of new blues coming onto the market as consumers seek out more interesting flavour profiles. Without a doubt, the most runaway success within speciality cheese at the moment is being seen in softer, creamier blues, made in a Continental style. “We’ve found, no matter which feature blue cheese we recommend the most, consistent sales are from our Gorgonzola Dolce,” says Dylan Fourie, deli manager at Macknade, adding that Stilton comes in at a close second, “as it still offers a slightly crumbly and creamy texture and isn’t too overpowering.” Blue cheese is “inspiring confidence” with consumers, agrees Caroline, who is seeing consumer trends shifting. “Younger customers, who once might have taught blue was ‘too much’, are becoming far more open to it – especially when shown quick, tasty ways to use it in everyday meals. A little crumble on a salad, stirred through pasta, or melted on a burger. It’s these small wins for flavour that help people fall in love with blue.” Shepherds Purse’s biggest seller, she says, is Yorkshire Blue, first developed by her mum, Judy, in the 90s. “Creamy, mellow and beautifully balanced, it’s the perfect introduction to blue cheese, while also being loved by those who enjoy a softer style.” Dominique Delacour, head of UK marketing at TomWalker & Sons, says the business is experiencing high demand for blue cheeses that combine flavour and convenience. “Smaller formats that help preserve quality are performing well,” she adds, “particularly when tied to provenance and heritage – factors that remain key for today’s more discerning customer.” Dominique agrees that softer blues, such as Cambozola and Montagnolo, are leading the charge, driving much of the category’s momentum. TomWalker & Sons saw its sales in these products 36 with bitterness and zing from the addition of a local Vermouth. Innovation paid off: Tatie won a Super Gold in the 2023 and 2024 World Cheese Awards.” Northern Europe is less known for its traditional blues, but cheesemakers here are catching up fast, Ned explains. “Schleswig- Holstein in northern Germany is home to Friesisch, or Friesland Blue – a cow’s milk cheese with a blushing pink washed-rind which adds a gentle note of funk to the rich spicy paste. Norway won best cheese in the world at the 2016 World Cheese Awards for its Kraftkar – a cow’s milk whose spicy intensity is mellowed with its creamy texture and sweet flavour. And Sweden has a number of charmingly named blues, including Vera, a sweet-tasting sheep’s milk with a soft texture and a gentle herbaceous note.” get a modern AOC in 1925 – now recognised internationally as the PDO designation.” Italy is justifiably famous for its cow’s milk Gorgonzola, Ned adds, while Spain, “has the rustic, farmy, mouth-tingling Cabrales, traditionally wrapped inmaple leaves and aged in caves in the Picos de Europa mountains. All of these cheeses, with their long and rich traditions, have PDO status.” These countries, Ned continues, have not let tradition get in the way of innovation, withmodern, new- wave blue cheeses found in all of them. Experimentation is on the rise in the EU, Ned says, picking out Italy, where flavoured blues are bang on trend at the moment. “One example is Tatie, fromVeneto in Northeastern Italy – a cow’s milk cheese softened and sweetened withmascarpone, @specialityfood Blue cheese is undoubtedly going through a revolution, as existing fans ask their cheesemongers, ‘what’s new?’, and younger and newer blue cheese consumers dip their toes into the category for the first time – many using it in cooking to soften its edges a little SOMETHING OLD , SOMETHING NEW Across the UK, there’s a strong heritage of blue cheesemaking, and in turn that’s inspired today’s modern makers. While Stilton is rightly heralded as one of Britain’s epicurean gems, did you know that our oldest blue cheese has a history stretching back around 300 years? Dorset Blue Vinny was revived by Michael Davies 50 years ago. His daughter, Emily Davies, who runs the business today, says, “It was a cheese made in nearly every farmhouse in Dorset, and it was rumoured to be Thomas Hardy’s favourite. With the onset of the Milk Marketing Board, when farmers could make a better price for their milk, they didn’t leave any milk for their wives, who were the ones traditionally making cheese – consequently Dorset Blue Vinny died out.” Later, as milk buying changed, Emily jokes that her dad was annoyed by getting up every day to milk his cows for products nobody wanted. “He had originally trained as a cheesemaker, Younger customers, who once might have taught blue was ‘too much’, are becoming far more open to it – especially when shown quick, tasty ways to use it in everydaymeals CAROLINE BELL, SHEPHERDS PURSE and decided maybe he ought to think about making cheese. We are right on the cusp of big Cheddar making, so he knew he didn’t want to make Cheddar, so thought, ‘how about Dorset Blue Vinny’?” Off he went to the Ministry of Agriculture, Fisheries and Food where the recipe was held. “He got his sticky mitts on it, bought a second-hand vat, and started making it in the garage at the end of the farmhouse.” Emily’s mother, naturally, didn’t approve of her husband maturing the cheese in their home. “The walls were turning blue. My mum said, ‘Michael, this isn’t happening in my pantry, let’s be off with you!’ He got addicted and converted one of the old cow barns, where we still make it today.” The team use milk from the farm’s own herd of 280 Holstein-Friesian cows to produce the cheese – the liquid travelling only 80 yards from the milking parlour to the cheesemaking vat. It’s matured for 15 to 20 weeks, with the PGI cheese being, “a brilliant introduction to blue”, says Emily. “It’s got such a delicate veining pattern and is lovely and creamy.” A newer range of cheeses to come about from the milk price crash of the late 90s is the variety from The Cornish Cheese Co, founded by Philip and Carol Stansfield. Philip realised there wasn’t a blue cheese in Cornwall at the time, and wanted to steer away from Stilton styles, says his son Ben, today the business’s head of sales and marketing. After a two-day cheesemaking course in 2000, and a day with an instructor, Philip set out to create a smooth, creamy, European-style blue. A year later, Cornish Blue was born. Crafted in open vats, and hand-cut, moulded, salted, pierced and packed, the cheese is matured between 10 to 12 weeks and designed to be eaten young, so it isn’t dominated by a blue punch. “I tell customers it’s a fantastic option for people that swear they don’t like blue cheese,” Ben says. “We really enjoy in-person tasting and being able to win people around. For them to admit they’ve been converted!” As a modern dairy, The Cornish Cheese Co isn’t defined by many generations of heritage, which, says Ben, makes it more agile and adaptive to consumer demand. As a result, many of the maker’s cheeses, including its blue, have been designed with contemporary tastes in mind. During lockdown, Ben says they became more conscious that consumers were being drawn to softer, creamy cheeses, but also towards locally-made versions of their Continental favourites. “We have seen a shift of customers wanting these types of cheeses made with local produce, supporting small A WHOLESALER’S PERSPECTIVE Three big hitters for the business, he says, are: Isle of Wight Blue - Covered in blue, green, grey and white mould this soft blue cheese starts out with a relatively mild blue flavour which develops a spiky blue flavour profile as it matures. This blue will stand out on any cheeseboard. Grand Noir – A luscious and creamy premium blue cheese aged in black wax. Grand Noir has a punchy blue flavour with an incomparably smooth consistency and extraordinary mouthfeel. A truly versatile cheese that works just as well on a salad of pears and walnuts. Cashel Blue – They recently received their second 3 Star Great Taste Award. This Irish blue classic cheese is not to be missed. It’s creamy yet crumbly and so versatile it works well sprinkled over a salad or melted into soup. Tim Collings, national sales manager at Rowcliffe, agrees with our other experts that the modern palate is craving a creamier, milder blue, and the wholesaler has seen an increase in sales of this style in the last 12 months