Speciality Food Magazine -November/December 2025

S tanding behind the cheese counter for the first time can be overwhelming. So many products to understand and learn. Customers asking questions (many of which you may not initially know how to answer). Processes and procedures to go through. All that expertise will come with time and training. But alongside that training, there are other things you can be thinking about and discovering along the way to bolster your new career in cheese. Cheesemongers (some stalwarts and others new to the industry) tell us what they wish they’d thought about when they were learning the ropes. VICTORIA DUNTHORNE VICTORIA’S CHEESE “For newbies, I’d say it’s never too early to prep for Christmas. Make sure your consumables are well stocked up, and don’t be afraid to pre-order with suppliers before they necessarily ask you! “Also, think about slightly reducing your range to make space for increases in volume. Rather than five different Cheddars, just have three for Christmas. “And, if someone has already mentioned Christmas, the first year is your ‘school year’, when you get to know your customer base and what sells well in your community. I swore I wouldn’t sell waxed cheeses, but I now have Snowdonia Rock Star in the fridge every week as it sells well and people love it. Remember, you are running a business, not an ego trip.” STEPHEN FLEMING GEORGE & JOSEPH “One thing that springs to mind is less about cheese, and more about the shop. Put everything on wheels so you can rearrange the shop, which makes it easier for cleaning and reconfiguring when you might want to lay things out differently throughout the year. “Also, get out and meet cheesemakers. I discovered my first range this way. I’d speak to one cheesemaker, and they’d say, ‘go and speak to this person’, then they’d recommend someone else. I came across cheeses I wouldn’t have found otherwise.” CHARLIE TURNBULL CHEESE EXPERT “Purely on the cheese front, I would have liked to have learned more about the condition of cheese earlier on. I accepted too quickly the often very positive assurance from wholesalers they could get any cheese to me within two days. But I “Visit as many cheesemongers and producers as you can. Seeing different ways of working and tasting a wide range of cheeses is invaluable. And visit a dairy and cheesemaker before you start too. It will help you to talk about and describe the cheeses.” SVETLANA KUKHARCHUK THE CHEESE LADY “Listen closely to your customers and engage with them in the way they want to engage. If they’d like to browse quietly, let them; if they’re chatty, have a conversation. Pay close attention to their likes and dislikes rather than focusing on the cheeses you personally love. The goal is to make the experience all about them, not about you. “You should also be hyperaware of soft cheese dates. Don’t assume everyone else is keeping track as carefully as you might. Create systems that help ensure soft cheeses are sold as they reach their peak ripeness, so nothing goes to waste and customers enjoy them at their best.” NICOLA AND DARREN KELLAR ALL IN A PICKLE “When we started, we asked our cheese supplier for help, striking up a good relationship from day dot. They came to the shop and showed us how to display the cheeses in the counter. We also visited suppliers, and were shown how to cut the cheeses properly. So, basically cement a good lasting relationship with all your suppliers is important. “The other most important tip? Steer away from anything a supermarket stocks. Make it unique.” CHRISTOPHE BONNEAU THE CHEESE SHOP, BRADFORD UPON AVON “Make sure that you know what you are selling. Product knowledge is key to your success. Always present a good display, as your customers will buy with their eyes first, and offer plenty of choice and samples. I think you should give advice on pairing cheese with other food or drinks too. This will help you upselling other products. “And remember, different cheese will sell better than others at certain times of the year, so make sure that you are prepared for the demand.” needed to figure out how I wanted MY Caerphilly or Montgomery. To narrow down what my customI wish I’d done my WSET at the same time as studying cheese for two reasons. Firstly, it is a very good way to learn and understand what goes together. And then, there’s the opportunity of selling wine and cheese together, which can push your turnover up 20-30%. You’d need to be good in both, and have the same patter, confidence and joie de vivre. ers wanted and my ‘house cheeses’. If you go to Paxton & Whitfield and La Fromagerie and taste a Monty, they each have their own version. They’ve invested in those relationships, and customers 34 COUNTERPOINT SPONSORED BY It’s such a friendly industry, and everyone wants the best for everyone else get attached to their variant of the cheese. Knowing what you’re choosing, and being deliberate, makes you a better cheesemonger.” PETER DAVIS CHEESE AND BEES “You need to learn the stories behind the cheese. Customers love hearing about the maker, the farm or the animals. It also builds your confidence. And don’t be afraid to say, ‘I don’t know’. Honesty builds trust, and you can always go and find out. Learning never stops. Taste constantly. You can’t recommend confidently if you don’t know the cheese personally. “I’d also say, find mentors and friends in the industry. There’s a NEW CHEESEMONGER 101 wealth of knowledge among makers and mongers, and most love to share. It’s such a friendly industry, and everyone wants the best for everyone else.” JESSICA SUMMER MOUSE & GRAPE “If you can, get hands on experience working in a cheesemonger for six months to a year, ideally through a Christmas season. It’s the busiest time of year, and you’ll learn so much – from stock management to handling customers under pressure. “Also, invest in your learning. The Academy of Cheese is a brilliant foundation. I’d recommend going up to Level 2, pairing that with HACCP training. Are you new to the art of serving cheese, or just learning the ropes? Here, specialist cheese retailers tell us what they wish they’d have known at the beginning of their careers