Speciality-Food-Magazine-September-2024

CHEESE UNCUT 54 New retail perspectives from industry experts “We areEarth –Humas (Human)” I n the Parable of the Sower (Lk 8:5-15), Jesus teaches that both seed and soil are necessary for growth. Both seed and soil need proper interaction to produce a satisfying crop. The seed is likened to the word of God. The soil is the life and the heart of each human being. When we think today about the food that we eat can we honestly say that there is a proper interaction with the soil and seed? September is Organic Month and a good time to reflect and discuss on how organic farming is being perceived as a nation. To prepare myself for this editorial I have been researching and chatting to organic farmers up and down the UK and have found some incredibly inspirational content that I do hope you will appreciate. In the UK we are so lucky to have so much choice when it comes to cheese, but are we? Do we need to consider where the cheese is coming from? Does the label give you the full story? Organic is generally the more expensive choice, why is that? Working organically to produce mixed and diverse pastures that are at one with the ecology of the landscape takes a lot of research, time, hope and hard work. The nutrients that our diverse rich pastures can give our livestock is certainly rewarding. Not only does it filter through to the taste of the cheese but also adds to the health and wellbeing of the animals. The livestock are content and produce great rich milk with a diet of herbal leys grown through carbon rich soils. Have you ever spotted a bunch of cows grazing in a distinct pattern? That may be when the farmer may had missed spraying a section with fertiliser. The cows are simply going to where the nutrient rich grasses are that they enjoy far more. At a recent Specialist Cheesemakers Visit to Torpenhow Dairy Farm in Cumbria that is exactly where I found out why Jenny and Mark Lee decided to change their farming from fertiliser to organic literally overnight. Some five years later they can clearly see the rewards. At first production levels fell sharply. Over time JAMES GRANT NO2 POUND STREET Entries are now open for the competition, with the winner to be decided at the World Cheese Awards this November. In 1377, the Ordinances of the Cheesemongers were set down, limiting trade to only two official cheese markets in London. Selling cheese anywhere else was illegal. Thankfully, times have changed, and we now have more than 1,500 delis employing a workforce of nearly 11,000 in the UK alone. Somewhere amongst these and the international cheesemongering community is the next Young Cheesemonger of the Year, with the Academy of Cheese now calling out for cheesemongers to enter in their search. One of the few competitions that invites cheesemongers from around the world to take part, Young Cheesemonger of the Year will be held for the third year running at the World Cheese Awards in Viseu, Portugal on Friday, 15th November 2024. In 2023, the competition extended its global reach, with six entrants from five countries facing each other in Trondheim, Norway, resulting in 21-year-old Lily Morris from Wales winning the coveted title. Lily is thankful for the exposure that entering the competition has given her family business, saying, “I entered Young Cheesemonger to challenge my cheese knowledge and to have some fun! Winning really boosted not only my confidence inmy mongering abilities, but it also helped build up the shop’s reputation. It has inspired me to keep on exploring the ever-changing cheese world, which never fails to amaze me!”. Free to enter, the competition is open to any cheesemonger under the age of 30, with applicants being asked, initially, to provide a short biography and submit recommendations for their perfect cheeseboard. New for 2024 is the ‘Perfect Pairing’ round, which asks applicants to present to the panel of judges their ultimate combination of one cheese, one Peter’s Yard cracker and one complementary accompaniment. Six shortlisted entrants will be invited to attend the World Cheese Awards - the largest cheese-only competition on the planet - and compete against their peers across five rounds. The Academy says it is delighted to have Peter’s Yard on board as sponsors of the competition for the first time this year. As well as sponsorship, Peter’s Yard is offering finalists £300 each in funding to support their travel and accommodation costs. Yona Ellis, marketing director at Peter’s Yard, said, “We’re delighted to be supporting the Academy of Cheese in their search to find the freshest talent in the Young Cheesemonger of the Year award. We can’t wait to see what innovative pairings the contestants create with our award-winning crackers.” Peter’s Yard is joined by the Guild of Fine Food as co-sponsors of the competition, with the winner of the award being announced on the same day at the World Cheese Awards. Key dates for Young Cheesemonger of the Year 2024: Deadline for entry: Monday, 30th September Finalists announced: Thursday, 10th October Finals & Results: Friday, 15th November Established to promote cheese knowledge and provide career development within the industry, the Academy of Cheese aims to build greater respect for the industry, with Young Cheesemonger of the Year showcasing the skill, knowledge and talent of its members. As well as a bright future and the coveted title of Young Cheesemonger 2024, the winner will receive a trophy, feature in Fine Food Digest, and secure a place on the Academy of Cheese Level Two Member Certification course. They will also be invited to judge at the World Cheese Awards 2025. Full details, along with the application form, can be found on the Academy of Cheese website. Could you be the next Young Cheesemonger of the Year? and thankfully with the additional income from on-site event catering the family were able to successfully transition to organic. The land is giving back, and it shows in the milk and importantly the exceptional cheese. Organic is a farming system that works with nature, it is therefore sustainable and should be the most trusted. Organic has been lost in translation over recent years and the need for proper explanation is welcome. It is encouraging to see Feltham’s Farm owners Penny Nagle and Marcus Fergusson recently start the Organic Cheesemakers Network. They are both driven to bring together producers up and down the UK to protect and preserve organic cheesemaking. Why don’t organic cheesemakers get rewarded for reducing pollution and the brilliant goods that they deliver? Organic farmers are at one with positive agricultural transition, this helps to rebuild carbon in the soil. Our health as a nation would improve if organic food production was more accessible. The water health in our communities is tainted by industrial farm waste and the government do nothing to stop it. As big industry continues to feed the nation the government continues to allow them to pollute as they fear that any sanctions imposed will result in food increases. It is essential that the people are allowed to see and hear the full story about the food that they eat. We have no idea where all the milk comes from that produces the industrial cheese that adorns the supermarket shelves. We do not know what conditions the animals live in and the food that they are given. Patrick Holden is the cheesemaker at Holden Farm in Wales and the founder of the British Organic Farmer’s established in 1982. His extensive advocacy work centres on the importance of transforming our food and farming systems to address climate change, reverse biodiversity loss, and improve public health. His cheese, Hafod, is a delight with rich earthy and umami notes, full of character and terroir. His farm has been certified organic since 1973 making it the oldest organic dairy farm in Wales. In order to break the cycle we need more people to understand organic and allow them to get the full story behind their food. More open farm visits would be beneficial to allow people to fully appreciate the work care, love and sheer determination these organic farmers have. Which is simply to be at one with nature by working with and not against it and taking only what is needed to ensure regeneration is achieved. Treur Kaas expands range Award-winning cheesemaker Treur Kaas has added two new cheeses to its range. The Goat Maasdam is an Emmental-type cheese made using goat’s milk, and boasts a slightly sweet taste as a result of the recipe which creates holes in the cheese. The creamy paste and sweet goat’s cheese flavour of this cheese make it a stand-out new product in the fine cheese sphere. Treur Kaas have also launched Triple Dutch, a soft and creamy cheese made using 40% cow’s milk, 40% goat’s milk and 20% sheep’s milk and matured for four weeks. Both cheeses are made using pasteurised milk and vegetarian rennet. @specialityfood