Speciality Food Magazine May 2024

CHEESE UNCUT @specialityfood 22 New retail perspectives from industry experts Aday in the life of a cheese judge JAMES GRANT NO2 POUND STREET Understanding the reasonswhy cheese looks and tastes as it does is such an immersive experience visually, physically and emotionally. Hencemy love of being a cheese judge is infinitive Clawson Farms, best known for the production of Stilton, has brought to market a selection of innovative new wax truckles, drawing on its 100-year history in cheesemaking. The dairy says it hopes the range will disrupt what is an increasingly competitive category by combining characterful branding withmuch- loved flavour combinations with a twist, drawing on both sweet and savoury tastes, and using its premium Cheddars, Red Leicesters and Wensleydales as a base. The newcomers include Truffle Seeker (a truffle and sweet honey Cheddar represented on the pack by foraging pig Fred), and Dormouse’s Delight (Wensleydale with cranberry, Multi award-winning Yorkshire cheesemaker, Shepherds Purse, has joined forces with local business, Acorn Dairy, to produce its first organic cheese – Organic Yorkshire Blue. The cheese has taken 12 months to develop, using milk from Acorn Dairy’s herds, grazed on pastures in Yorkshire and the Durham Dales, and marks the beginning of Shepherds Purse’s organic journey, with more products in the range likely to be available in an organic format in the future. Yorkshire Blue is a mild, creamy cheese, first launched in 1995 by the Bell family, and has become the business’s most popular variety, taking home industry accolades that include a gold at the World Cheese Awards. Caroline Bell, joint managing director at Shepherds Purse, says, New truckle range from traditional cheesemaker elderflower and orange marmalade, featuring mascot Dorothea on the labelling). All truckles are in a 200g format, apart fromTruffle Seeker, at 150g. “Our research shows there is a real desire for unusual flavours and distinct branding for truckle cheeses, particularly in delis and farm shops,” says managing director Bill Matthieson. “We are bringing to the sector something original in terms of taste, and premium in terms of quality. Traditionally truckles have been bought for special occasions and gifts, but our insight shows that more people are now buying them as a treat for themselves.” “We’re thrilled to have officially launched the organic version of our popular Yorkshire Blue in collaboration with Acorn Dairy. We’ve been driven by a passion for artisan cheesemaking and health, which has gone hand-in-hand with a deep commitment to farming and sustainability ever since our mum, Judy Bell, founded Shepherds Purse 35 years ago.” Caroline Bell (nee Tweddle) operations manager at Acorn Dairy, adds, “Shepherds Purse collaborating to make a cheese with organic milk was discussed every time we met. It is more relevant and welcome than ever before, as we all try to reduce our impact and choose foods whose production builds biodiversity as well as environmental and human health...and if it happens to come in delicious cheese form, even better!” B eing involved with cheese is quite frankly awesome. My journey in cheese started many years ago when my mum made me the most delicious cheese and pickle toasted sandwiches. I loved that creamy and buttery taste alongside the sweet, sharp pickle with the melted butter on the toast. This sandwich has remained a favourite of mine, but I can’t ever quite replicate the brilliance of my mum’s toastie artistry. The cheese my mum used was bought from the local shop and it was an Ayrshire Dunlop. This cheese is like Cheddar in make but somewhat milder as the curds retain more moisture, and the cheese is softer to the touch. It is a Scottish variety, created by Barbara Gilmour who brought the recipe from Ireland in the 1700s. As I grew up in Scotland it is of no surprise that this was a staple kept in my mother’s larder. The joy I have tasting cheese is off the scales. For me there is nothing quite like it. There are countless makes all offering myriad textures, smells, flavours and colours. Understanding the reasons why cheese looks and tastes as it does is such an immersive experience visually, physically, and emotionally. Hence my love of being a cheese judge is infinitive. My first competition for 2024 was to judge at the British Cheese Awards. This was my second time as a judge with the BCA. My first experience was in 2011 in Cardiff. No2 Pound Street were invited to judge as we won the Best New Retailer 2011 – this was the very first time that I judged, and I was somewhat green. Thankfully I had some good tutors, especially the formidable Juliet Harbut whose extensive knowledge on all things cheese helped immensely. This year the awards were held at The Bath & West Showground in Somerset. It was the perfect venue. I think a cheese competition in the South-West is so important especially as it has the highest proliferation of cheesemakers. After our briefing for the first half of the day I was paired with Nigel Pooley. This gentleman had his nose insured for £5 million as a Cheddar grader. His journey in cheese began in 1963, and he is probably one of the finest Cheddar graders on the planet. What a fabulous experience to have been with him. We both agreed on two fabulous cheeses and placed our gold stickers. They turned out to be Montgomery’s and Pitchfork Cheddar – no surprise there! For the second half of the day, I was thrilled to join two legendary cheesemakers, James Montgomery, and Mary Quicke. Our task was to taste the blues that had been awarded gold in the first round. We ruminated, cogitated, and digested our thoughts. It was agreed that the mature Cashel Blue was just perfect, and we awarded it the top prize. Later this cheese was yet again judged to win not only category but reserve champion cheese. Being able to tune your taste senses correctly is a skill that takes many years to master. Nigel Pooley, Mary Quicke and James Montgomery know so much and I was so lucky to have had such brilliant company to learn from. With the immense help from organisations such as the Academy of Cheese, the understanding of this food is becoming more accessible to all those willing to take the journey. Believe me it is a great journey to be on and one that has seen me literally travel the World. There are many inspirational people to meet that will help guide you into the world of cheese. It is a journey that connects you not only to a food that is delicious but also helps you connect with the animals and the land that it come from. Yorkshire dairy brings first organic cheese to market Fledgling cheesemaker begins commercial production Mat Lloyd never set out to be a cheesemaker. But since being gifted a £4.99 cheese kit four years ago, he hasn’t looked back, and this month he’s due to open his own, small commercial cheesemaking kitchen – The Rennet Works . “I just really got quite involved with the process,” Mat says of his journey. “I enjoyed the science of making cheese and beganmaking quite an array of cheeses. Friends and family were really enjoying them, and they coercedme into entering into the International Cheese and Dairy Awards last year at Stafford. I did it on a bit of a whim, thinking ‘they’re never going to give me anything’, and I came away with two awards!” Mat won a Gold in the Best Semi-Soft Cheese with Flavours category for his Pepper Devil, and International Novice. His products, made with locally sourced Friesian and Jerseymixmilk, will be sold only in independents, with the initial range including The Rennet Works’ halloumi, the ICDA-winning Pepper Devil, and new cheese Templar. Pepper Devil is a small, hung, semi- soft cheese, loosely based around a Swiss Belper Knoll. Matured for four to five weeks it is infused with garlic and encrusted with pepper. While Templar has its roots in a German butterkase. “It like a buttery Gouda,” explains Mat. “It’s a butter washed curd that’s lightly smoked over applewood and stencilled. It melts in the mouth, and is really good on grilled sandwiches. A very nice all- round cheese. The Germans call it a ‘beer cheese’ as they put it on the bars to snack on.” Find The Rennet Works on social media to discover more about Mat’s cheeses or to enquire about small run or bespoke orders.