Speciality Food Magazine May 2024

are interested in ingredients listings for health or dietary reasons, as well as the story and provenance of a product,” he explains. Seasonal fruit vinegars have become mainstays of his business, from an elderflower vinegar, produced with flowers harvested from the hedgerows of Demijohn’s Galloway farm, to raspberry vinegar, made with prime, plump Scottish berries. Gianfranco Perri, founder of Just Gourmet Foods, agrees with Angus that its quality customers are looking for predominantly specialityfoodmagazine.com 17 mango, and calamansi citrus vinegars. But, like Dawn, Demijohn founder Angus Fergusen says it’s milder flavoured vinegars (rather than more exotic bottles) made with popular well-known fruits that land best with customers. Demijohn, which offers refillable bottles of oils, vinegars, spirits and more, says single flavour or ingredient varieties sell well, and that customers are particularly drawn to his products because they are crafted with real fruit, and no preservatives. “Now, more than ever, customers - especially when it comes to balsamic vinegar, which (when sourced from the right people, at the right ages) is far superior to mass- produced products, which tend to be thin and insipid, missing that rich, sweet caramelised taste of a traditional balsamico. “We offer a range of balsamics which are suitable for a variety of uses, from great value, everyday condiments, to superb, aged vinegars which should be reserved for special dishes,” he says. Olive oils...and alternatives Angus sells more than 70 handmade food and drink products on tap, and says extra virgin olive oil, British rapeseed oil and infused British rapeseed oil (alongside fruit vinegars and balsamics) make up around 50% of what rings through the till. This is a sharp change from Demijohn’s beginnings at its first high street outlet in Edinburgh, when sales were skewed (65%) towards alcohol. “Over the last 20 years our customers have definitely enjoyed more of our non-alcoholic products,” he says. “The result of this is that purchasing decisions for oneself and when buying gifts, are more regularly heavily weighted towards quality, provenance, health and wellbeing. Our offering of oils, vinegars and dressings is a crucially important part of our range.” Consumers choosing oils for health (as well as flavour) is a pattern Clearspring managing director, Maria Dawson, has noticed occurring more frequently recently. She also says she’s seeing consumers becoming more adventurous in the kitchen “inspired Independent businesses can introduce a new oil to their shelves very quickly, with just one or two cases to gauge their core shoppers’ interest beforemaking it a permanent offering alongside their olive and sunflower oil category staples MARIA DAWSON, CLEARSPRING by the ever-growing number of global foodie-influencers, and instant access to virtually every kind of cuisine imaginable at the click of a button. “This has led to more and more shoppers experimenting. They might have seen the use of walnut oil in French and Italian cooking, or coconut oil in Indian cuisine...or they are simply exploring simple ways to elevate the flavour in their everyday cooking.” Choosing to stock organic and cold-pressed oils delivers health benefits to customers, Maria continues, while allowing the products to “retain even more of their natural flavour compared to conventional oils, or those that are highly processed, often at high temperatures.” Independent and speciality retailers have a “fantastic opportunity” with alternative culinary oils, Maria says. “Supermarkets tend to focus on core category varieties such as olive, sunflower and rapeseed oils. By offering something unique, speciality retailers can give themselves a point of difference and give shoppers a reason to visit their store. Independent businesses can introduce a new oil to their shelves very quickly, with just one or two cases to gauge their core shoppers’ interest before making it a permanent offering alongside their olive and sunflower oil category staples. Suitable for heating up to 180C, Maria recommends coconut, avocado, hazelnut, sesame and toasted sesame oils as solid investments for retailers this year. “Each oil has its own unique flavour characteristics,” she says, adding that “avocado oil has a creamy texture, with a very mild fruit flavour. It lends itself particularly well to baking, but is also great for sauteeing and stir fries.” Those looking for something special should seek out pumpkin seed oil, Maria says. “It has a rich deep colour and velvety texture, with a distinct nutty flavour which works well with balsamic vinegar to create a sumptuous salad dressing.” It is also worth noting, “that with the shortage of European olives due to poor harvests, there has been a steep increase in the cost of olive oil.” This is “driving a lot of shoppers to seek out and try alternative oils that are maybe more affordable, whilst still delivering on taste and quality.” Just Gourmet Foods founder, Gianfranco Perri, though, says the demand for high-quality extra virgin olive oil, is still there, despite its increasingly weighty price tag. “We are seeing growing interest in single varietal extra virgin olive oil,” he reveals, saying he can only surmise that “authenticity still wins in a cash-strapped market and, when purse strings are tight, that there are still people who value quality over quantity.” Strong sales could also be, Gianfranco says, a reflection of consumers looking for more connection with their food, choosing products they can trace back to specific locations and individuals. “Having personal relationships with our producers means that we see the love and expertise which, literally, gets poured into every bottle. 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