Speciality Food Magazine JulyAugust 2024

8 @specialityfood sustainable and economically viable food and farming systems.” He continued, “Restoring this balance and equity requires ambition and vision from government. The long-term effects of recent policies are still unfolding, but the need for action is urgent. One thing is clear; we must aspire to accomplish more.” By considering organic’s four founding principles, OF&G’s manifesto identifies solutions that address the huge disparity that exists in current food and farming systems. The organisation’s chief executive, Roger Kerr, said the future of food and farming is becoming a ‘political hot potato’, and must urgently be addressed to ensure ongoing security. “The nation’s seen huge upheaval in the last eight years. A flawed food system has left the country at the tipping point of catastrophic environmental and human health crises,” Roger said. “Decisive action cannot come soon enough. We need policies that create jobs and improve rural livelihoods while delivering The tide is turning R ecently I travelled to the USA to attend the Cheese Mongers Invitational (CMI) and Fancy Food Show – one of the largest artisan food and drink expos in the world. The CMI is a fantastic competition set out to find the best cheesemonger in the United States. It is run over several days with tests and interviews given by some of the greatest cheese authorities in the world. The event culminates at a brilliant venue called Brooklyn Steel in the heart of New York cool. This is where cheesemakers, cheesemongers and the public all gather for the most exceptional party of bottomless cheese and excitement as the competition moves into its final moments. The end scene features the cheesemongers presenting their favourite cheese, demonstrating the perfect wrap and hoping to slice the exact weight as prescribed by the ever energetic and charismatic founder Adam Moscowitz. What an absolute hoot of show that aims to shout out the professionalism of American cheesemongers and the sheer brilliance of their incredible artisan cheesemakers. It engages the public and captures the attention of both local and international media. In the UK we have recently seen brilliant initiatives to help encourage more to the world of cheese both on a professional and commercial basis. The Academy of Cheese (AOC) and Guild of Fine Food (GFF) are without doubt spearheading exceptional promotional drives to keep momentum as they strive for excellence in the artisan, farmhouse cheese world. The AOC was the brainchild of Mary Quicke – in my opinion the godmother of cheese. Founded in 2013 it has quickly taken root as the educational platform for cheese brilliance, with modular levels now being taught all over the world. The AOC are always welcoming and happy to collaborate. Three years ago, when a then employee of Quicke’s, Patrick Spinazza suggested to put on an affinage competition, the idea was grabbed. Affinage means to refine a cheese in a controlled environment (biome) and change the organoleptic properties of a cheese over time. Three years later the competition has evolved into an incredible school JAMES GRANT NO2 POUND STREET of learning and helped open a different world of opportunity for mongers. I even in built my very own cheese cave, which was switched on the day the very first competition cheese was delivered! Real artisan cheese is without doubt becoming more popular. There are so many passionate and talented people doing brilliant work shouting about its provenance and benefits over cheaply prepared industrial styles. Whilst at The Fancy Food Show in New York I was pleased to see producers of small batch cheeses. They stood out over the larger corporations as their passion shone through. The cheese tasted was delicious. One example was Von Trapp Cheese. This cheese simply blew my mind. The Vermont based creamery has its own herd and practises regenerative farming, they want to make sure that the land is properly nourished. Their knowledge and connection with the agroecology is clear. It is obvious from large shows such as the FFS that there is a change of tack with the big corps widening their eyes to what the small producers are doing. The thing is, for the most part, these small producers haven’t changed anything. However, these great people will gladly embrace technology providing it helps them build without detriment to the land or beast. In large companies there are far too many pen pushers that have little or no connection with the physical product. Most industrial cheese being produced is made by pressing buttons. It is only so cheap because of the way it is produced with little human intervention. Sadly, there is a large price to pay, being the impact on the animals and the land in which the products are being made. With organisations such as the AOC and the GFF plus new initiatives such as the educational subscription through The Real Cheese Project things can get better. The Real Cheese Project is an initiative to help promote real cheese and great cheesemongers with a consumer-facing publication, monthly webinar and of course cheese. Fun and informative events like the CMI in New York help spread the word on proper production. They showcase people unified in bringing the greatest produce to your doorsteps. The Academy’s Young Cheesemonger of the Year is helping our youth see the wealth of opportunities in the good dairy industry. The World Cheese Awards have put cheese on a level that shines brilliance on this food that goes back thousands of years. If you are a business that uses cheese, consider your choices carefully ask your supplier about how it is made. Our decisions can and will affect our world as we need to preserve and nourish the flora and fauna. Future of food a “political hot potato” says OF&G Health, ecology, fairness and care are all under the spotlight as Organic Farmers & Growers (OF&G) publishes its latest manifesto – a framework of radical policy targeted at government. “Implementing OF&G’s recommendations would have a massive, beneficial impact. Organic is a defined farming system and operates to the highest level of compliance to deliver on all four of the principles outlined,” adds Roger. “The recent formal adoption of regulation on nature restoration by the EU shows that, with political will, change is possible. By advocating for policy changes that support health, ecology, fairness, and care, we can create a sustainable, equitable, vibrant and healthy food system. Organic is part of the solution to the challenges confronting us but is not just about changing farming practices, it is about championing a profound, positive impact on our society and the planet.” IN THE UK WE’RE ALREADY FAILING TO MEET 17 OF OUR 20 BIODIVERSITY TARGETS , WHILE RECORD RAINFALL IS DRASTICALLY REDUCING YIELDS SOURCE: OF&G 2024 MANIFESTO For further information contact Louise on 01206 508629 or louise.barnes@artichokehq.com