Speciality-Food-Magazine-JanuaryFebruary2025
CHEESE UNCUT 32 New retail perspectives from industry experts “A newyear, a newbeginning” 2 024 was quite a year in cheese, certainly a good one for real handmade artisan British artisan cheese. We saw the launch of The Real Cheese Project. The project supports independent cheesemakers and cheesemongers and helps bring awareness to the masses about the importance of handmade wholesome cheese. They are also engaged in research programmes to support all those involved in the real artisan cheese sector. In 2024 the Courtyard Dairy helped make three traditional Wensleydale recipes part of a project. They worked with three local Dales cheesemakers. From the experiment we could see and taste how the aspect, soil, grazing and breed all play an important role, including the biome in which the cheese is stored to age. Much like wine regionality there truly is cheese regionality; who knows perhaps a Grand Cru Wensleydale in 2025 – go Andy! The Academy of Cheese saw its first Fellows pass their level 3 certifications, a step closer to the first Master Of Cheese. This is such an important time for cheese professionals in the UK and only helping the consumer understand the immensity and importance of this very special food. Prior to the World Wars we had over 3,000 cheesemakers in the UK. After WWII we were down to circa 150. 2024 has been exceptionally hard for cheese farmers (those that also own livestock) and cheesemakers who buy in their milk. Farming and dairy running costs have been increasing exponentially. Also, our new Government’s bright idea to change agricultural property relief has been a massive blow for farmers. Some are about to throw in the towel. To be a proper cheesemaker you have got to be brave. One that doesn’t mind working all JAMES GRANT NO2 POUND STREET hours and most days. You must be connected to your soil and livestock. I have had the good fortune to meet many of these kind souls. These are the cheesemakers that are not only passionate about their work but are truly connected to nature. They are also happy to take time to show you their farm and livestock. This year as retailers we really do need to champion these people and their cheese. It is not just the product we are talking about, it is about the greater good that it brings when buying that more wholesome piece of cheese. What? I hear you say… Well it is simple, wholesome is the new buzzword. It means food that has not been messed about with and overly processed. Wholesome means cheese that contains minerals, calcium and nutrients that help maintain a balanced diet, whilst keeping your gut bacteria happy. What is more important is that we need to look after Mother Nature. If you invest in wholesome cheese for your cheese counters you are investing in the healthy future of our planet, people and local economy. Whilst I read about industrial dairy giants poisoning rivers and causing risk to humans it is clear that we need to do something, and it needs to happen now. Is an agrarian lifestyle possible? Can we rely on our local economy to provide food that nourishes and sustains? In my opinion yes this can happen, but we all need to consider what we are selling and why. In recent years I have made a commitment to knowing everything about what I sell. I need to be sure that my produce is tasty, wholesome, good for the planet, ethical and sustainable. I want the money I spend to go to people that truly deserve it and need it to help maintain their healthy in harmony with nature business model. In 2025 let the independents champion those brilliant local producers. Let us put our money back into the local economy. Try and avoid the need to shop at massive wholesalers, shop direct, shop small, shop wholesome! Wholesome is good for you; as a result you will only need buy half as much when comparted to the cheaper highly processed alternatives. Wholesome cheese will sustain your diet and health as it is full of goodness. Let your customers know! @specialityfood To be a proper cheesemaker youhave got to be brave. One that doesn’tmindworking all hours and most days. Youmust be connected to your soil and lifestock More than a decade since launching the now globally revered Brie-style cheese, Baron Bigod, Fen Farm Dairy in Suffolk has unveiled a new seasonal cheese . Raedwald (named for the Anglo- Saxon king of East Anglia) has been a year in the making. It’s crafted to mimic Reblochon, and arrives on the British cheese scene as consumer interest inmelting and cooking cheeses continues to soar. Available to order frommid- January, Jonny Crickmore, founder Research conducted by Vypr on behalf of The Real Cheese Project has uncovered positive news for the artisan cheese community. The survey found that Millennials and Generation Z shoppers are the most likely to purchase high quality cheese made locally or by small-scale producers – 35.2% of respondents aged 25-34 claimed to purchase artisan cheese on a weekly basis, the average figure dropping to 17.61% across the survey’s 1,000+ respondents. The research also looked into what aspects of cheese shoppers are willing to paymore money for: ‘better taste’ was the most popular response at 85.14%, ‘higher standards of animal welfare’ was the second most impactful at 79.23% and was followed by ‘support for family farms and local economies’ (78.05%), ‘more sustainable production’ (75.89%) and ‘handmade’ (72.93%). Men aged 18-44 were revealed to hold the highest levels of interest in artisan cheese, with 42.86% of men aged 25-34 stating that they purchased artisan cheese on a weekly basis followed bymen aged of Fen FarmDairy, says the beauty of Raedwald is its seasonality. “The purpose of making this cheese,” he said, “is we have surplus milk during two periods of the year – one being around Christmas, January, February and March, and the other May, June and July. We want to bring in seasonal cheeses during those times, starting with this one, this year. Seasonality is something I think we should celebrate more... getting excited about the next thing coming up, like asparagus or strawberry 18-24 at 34.48%, men aged 35-44 at 30.38%. 27.78% of female respondents aged 25-34 reported interest in the hallmarks of artisan cheese. A sobering find was that respondents did not recognise the scale of the UK’s artisan cheese industry; 23.38% of respondents believed that over 50% of total annual cheese sales could be attributed to the artisan sector and 81.16% guessed over 10%, while industry estimates state it stands at around 2-3%. SamBrice, co-founder of The Real Cheese Project, said, “Now is a great time to think about why we should be getting behind our small scale makers and independent retailers throughout the rest of the year. “Big support among Millennials and Gen Z bodes well for the future, but perhaps most encouragingly of all, we’re seeing the vast majority of respondents saying they’re willing to paymore for sustainably farmed, higher welfare, handmade cheese produced by family-run farms using local milk. “The problem is, most people don’t have any idea howmany amazing artisan cheeses we have in the UK, season. We want to replicate that in our cheesemaking.” Raedwald’s profile is aromatic and warm, with a hint of hazelnut at the rind, leading to a “cellar, winey flavour in the paste”. Led by the classic Reblochon format, the cheese is printed with the national flag on pack (alongside king Raedwald’s helmet, famously uncovered at Sutton Hoo), and layered with a wooden disc to control moisture levels, keeping it in optimum condition. “I like the story of Reblochon,” Jonny adds. “Apparently, when the tax man came around, French farmers would only half milk their cows. They’d pay their taxes, then after the tax man had gone, they’d finishmilking and turn that milk into cheese. If you translate Reblochon into English it means something like ‘high fat milk’. That really resonated withme because we have the highest fat content in our milk fromDecember through to when the cows go out.” Stocks of Raedwald will be strictly limited in its first year. “I’m really excited,” Jonny added. “And a little bit nervous. Baron Bigodmeans so much to us as a business and it’s not going to be neglected – it will always be our main focus. But we can’t wait to put out this seasonal cheese.” let alone the incredible things that our farmers andmakers are doing for both people and planet. “Alongside the rest of the real cheese community, we’re working to change that, so the rich tapestry of British cheese can remain intact for next Christmas and far beyond.” Fen FarmDairy unveils new cheese Younger shoppers support artisan cheesemakers, finds new survey Big support among Millennials and GenZbodeswell for the future, and we’re seeing the vastmajority of respondents saying they’rewilling to pay more for better
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