Speciality-Food-July/August 2025

partnerships between Irish makers and British wholesalers, with the backing of The Irish Food Board (Bord Bia). “Pre-Brexit, selling Irish cheese wasn’t a problem,” Tim explains. “But Brexit really put the cabosh on it. It was put in the ‘too hard to do’ basket really, and has fallen off a cliff. All that momentum that had been built up fizzled out.” Plans are underway for a ‘relaunch’ of Irish farmhouse cheeses in Britain, spearheaded by Tim and Sarah (who managed to get the British Cheese Awards renamed the British & Irish Cheese Awards earlier this year), and with support from Neal’s Yard Dairy, who will host a showcase of Irish cheeses in the autumn. Wholesaler Rowcliffe is also planning activity, Tim says, adding that it’s logistics that have been holding sales between the two countries back. “When Rowcliffe started, we brought Irish farmhouse cheese into the UK. We were the first in, mainly because of my connection of living here some of the time. We had a massive launch with the food minister in Ireland, and I could simply make a call to one person who would collate all the cheeses for me. That then finished and there wasn’t really a person in Ireland any longer prepared to do that. There’s a lot of paperwork! But now we’ve identified a company – a husband- and-wife team – who can do it, and it works like clockwork.” Retailers will be able to put in their orders and the rest will be taken care of. “Then, hey presto, @specialityfood I t’s been a turbulent, but exciting, 12 months in the cheese arena – for makers, wholesalers and retailers. Inheritance tax rules have left farmers reeling over the future of their operations. The dry spring and summer are impacting grass-fed livestock, which in turn is affecting the supply of cheeses from pasture raised animals. And the availability of organic milk continues to be a concern. On the flipside, we’re pleased to report that plenty of innovation continues within the industry, particularly with regards to how alternative farming methods can better cope with our changing climate. And it’s been interesting to hear from numerous specialist cheese shops who are seeing younger faces in-store, keen to learn more about artisan varieties, their makers, nuanced flavour profiles and sustainability credentials. Read on to discover more of what’s going on around the UK and beyond. The great Irish cheese revival Ireland’s lush green landscapes and cool climate position the country nicely as prime cheesemaking territory. Although varieties such as Cashel Blue, Coolea, Gubbeen and Durrus are well-known within cheese retailing circles, exploring the breadth of products beyond these, and gaining access to excellent Irish cheeses, has been nigh-on impossible in recent years. But that’s all about to change. Tim Rowcliffe, acting as an ambassador for the Specialist Cheesemakers Association (SCA) and Cashel Blue owner and Cais (Association of Irish farmhouse Cheesemakers) committee member Sarah Furno, have taken up the mantel of promoting Irish cheese, fostering THE CHEESE REPORT 2025 AMANDA BURNINGHAM EMMI UK MATTHEW LLOYD THE RENNET WORKS LEONA MCDONALD FIRST MILK/GOLDEN HOOVES TIM ROWCLIFFE SPECIALIST CHEESEMAKERS ASSOCIATION ANDY SWINSCOE THE COURTYARD DAIRY TOM RHODES CARRON LODGE FLORENCE MANNERINGS CHILTON FARM (PICTURE BY JOANNE COATES FOR NFNN) NED PALMER THE CHEESE TASTING CO BRENDAN READE ISLE OF MULL CHEESE CHARLES MARTELL CHARLES MARTELL & SON COMMENTATORS within two to three days you have a delivery.” ‘Phase one’ of the revival of Irish cheese in Britain is getting products flowing back into the UK, Tim says, adding that ‘phase two’ will involve organising a visit for British cheesemakers over to Ireland in 2027. “It’s all excellent news,” he adds. “We’re going in the right direction, and to have Bord Bia on board is fantastic. I’m sure this relaunch is Speciality Food investigates what’s impacting the world of cheese and dairy this year 16 EAT THEM OR LOSE THEM Neal’s Yard Dairy is standing head and shoulders alongside Britain’s territorial cheesemakers with its campaign, Eat Them or Lose Them. It’s a drive to raise consumer awareness of the remarkable historical, traditional cheeses made across the UK, from Appleby’s Cheshire to Lowfields Lancashire. This is an important endeavour, and one that’s being heralded by cheesemongers throughout Britain. Why not join the movement by further championing the cheeses they’re highlighting in your own counter? Find out more on their website.