Speciality Food Feb/March 2024

CHEESE UNCUT @specialityfood 50 New retail perspectives from industry experts “We are human, we are soil” A t No2 it is our goal to champion great cheese and produce. Back in 2010, when the doors opened for the first time, it was our vision to give exemplary service with the best food and wine. We genuinely thought that we could trust suppliers to deliver food and beverages from sustainable and ethical producers. Packaging and stories can paint pretty pictures of cows bouncing and kicking their hooves in luscious grass, but pictures like that are often fabricated to draw you in. Over the years we have learnt there are wholesalers and producers which carry some seriously bad food and drink. These types of items are mostly found in supermarkets and not in delicatessens. But beware. These businesses are quite happy to sell you a lie that does not tick any ethical and sustainable boxes and only brings them big bucks. Talk to your wholesalers and do check up on your produce. Most reputable companies will have a lot of information about their stock, and should really be able to answer any questions or concerns. I was watching a programme recently about one of the largest high street chains - Greggs - which has far more outlets than McDonalds. It beggared belief to see how much food that they are producing. It naturally made me think on so many levels of where and how they turn things around so fast. When it comes to sustainability is this much-loved bakery chain actually helping? On many levels yes – but mainly due to its affordability for the people. Are the sausage rolls healthy? Not really, but as a Greggs chief executive JAMES GRANT NO2 POUND STREET said: “We sell millions every day and they make people happy”. Do they really? Health against happiness? This is a controversial topic as we find our economy in turmoil because of incredibly bad decision making from governments over the ages. It is their short-sighted so-called wisdom that has contributed to the poisoning of our landscapes. Much land is only capable of producing crops that require a plethora of chemicals to help grow through the lifeless soil. During the Industrial Revolution, cities and towns grew larger to house workers settling into new areas as they were attracted by higher wages and better living conditions. The way we produced our food was unknowingly and dramatically damaging soil health with the heavy use of fertiliser amongst other factors. Our earth today needs to build back its organic profile, with many farms only having 1% to 2% organic matter. The Soil Association suggests that we should be aiming for 20%. Encouraging a rich organic soil is beneficial on so many levels. One simple example of poor soil health is land erosion via water run off because the soil has little or no substance or organic matter. Extensive deforestation and ploughing have destroyed the deep-rooted micellular network so important to the health of the land. Water that runs off heavily farmed soil is often contaminated with faeces and finds its way into rivers and streams containing other man-made pollutants. This in turn poisons our waterway eco systems. The future is in our hands – we need to stop and think about our food choices. When it comes to cheese there should only be one choice. That choice for me is the knowledge that the producer is doing all they can to protect the agrodiversity of their land. You can help today by only buying what is produced in this way. Buying only as much as needed. By supporting these brilliant farmers and shops that actually give a damn you are making a choice to save our soil that gives us life. We are human we are soil. Talk to yourwholesalers and do check up on your produce.Most reputable companieswill have a lot of information about their stock, and should really be able to answer any questions or concerns The founders of Feltham’s Farm (makers of Renegade Monk and Rebel Nun) have established a new Organic Cheesemaker’s Network in a bid to bring together producers across the UK to protect and preserve this sector of the industry. Penny Nagle and Marcus Fergusson started making cheese eight years ago and were adamant organic would be central to their plans, despite, they say, organic milk prices in their Somerset base being a third higher than average. “We felt the quality of the milk was essential, and organic certification, if you’re an organic dairy farmer, is just that extra layer of auditing and welfare and security you can pass onto the consumer,” says Penny. “The thing about cheesemakers,” she adds, “is we don’t talk to each other a lot, except at festivals. We noticed, from speaking to others at Christmas markets and events, that some people who were organic were going to different systems. They say there’s no value perceived at the customer end for organic, and we just wondered what is going wrong?” Penny says she and Marcus have spoken to numerous makers who are using organic milk, but don’t certify, either due to the cost, or because customers aren’t willing to pay extra for their products. The Organic Cheesemaker’s New network for organic cheesemakers Network, she adds, “is to pull these people together. Most organic cheesemakers are interested in the best quality milk and making the best quality cheese. We thought, ‘how can we pull through the barriers?’ If it’s not organic certification, what is it that people want?” Elmo Neath Baker, who has been working on the project, says, “A lot of people I’ve spoken to really care about organic as a way of farming, but they are struggling to find a reason to certify. People using organic milk and not certifying, we see as a failure of the organic system.” Via the network, the teamhope to explore these issues, finding a way to move forward collectively as makers. “We want to talk to certifiers about what’s happening. They are very much in that conversation,” says Penny. “Are they putting up too many barriers? Or focusing on things people don’t feel are important? When we talk about organic, we really believe in it but, at the same time, farmers can’t be charged hand over fist because they want to do the right thing.” Penny and Marcus are currently reaching out to organic cheesemakers, and are in the process of setting up a social media presence for the Organic Cheesemaker’s Network. Get in touch with them at Feltham Farm to find out more. Bath & West Food and Drink Festival is offering all members of the new network reduced price stands at the event onMarch 23 and 24.