Speciality Food Feb/March 2024

it back with them. I have a degree in biology, and I’m really interested in the science that underpins farming.” Catherine is concerned food security isn’t being taken seriously enough in the UK, saying she thinks ELMS (the Environmental LandManagement scheme) lacks understanding of farmers’ commitment to feeding the nation. “A lot of farmers view themselves as food producers. There’s lots of things we would like to adopt, but we’re waiting to make investment when the government tells us what they want us to invest in.” She says she feels farmers like herself are ‘hanging on’ and getting on with the business of rewilding. “We want the government to get on and commit to something. We have so many arguments here about the green agenda, and spendingmoney on it, but then, next year there might be a grant for certain things, we just don’t know.” Waiting on policy decisions has, Catherine added, created a lot of unhappiness amongst the farming community, who are, she says, dedicated to and ready to grow food in ever more sustainable ways. Food security is something both Richard and Jane also feel incredibly strongly about. “It might not be palatable for people to see food production happening in the UK,” Jane says. “Reforesting is very wonderful, but we should have the ability to say we want food to be produced here with good sustainable practices. We, as a country, don’t get that choice. We need to be realistic about that means.” “We need government support for the environmental mission to help farmers produce food in a net zero, carbon neutral way,” adds Richard. “The conservation plans we adopt should be integrated into the growing systems because we’re going to need more food over the next 20 years than we’ve ever produced.” These systems, he says, should reach beyond being carbon neutral, taking into account clean water, slow water, managing run-off and flooding, and soil health. More incentives are required across the board to boost both food security and energy security, Richard says passionately, adding that it’s better for everyone. “Farming more regeneratively, with less input, has the potential to make dairy farms more financially robust. It’s an exciting part of sustainability. Wherever we lower carbon, we lower the cost for everyone.” 46 @specialityfood Wyke Farms’ first demonstratable move into upping its game where sustainability is concerned, was a decade ago, when it committed to producing all its own energy. “All our products are made and packed using 100% energy we produce through anaerobic digestion, and surplus green gas we clean up and put back into the grid,” says Richard. “We focus wherever we can onminimising waste,” he adds, revealing the business takes in and processes waste apple pomace from cider farms, and bread waste from supermarkets, as well as recycling and recovering 90% of water used in its manufacturing process. Leading where others can follow Cheesemakers who’ve made the shift to usingmore sustainable methods are vocal about wanting to share their learnings with others, to help the UK travel further in the right direction. Though it’s difficult to change your style of farming overnight, says Jane, the industry is “great because people share ideas very freely. There’s lots of working groups you can join, and farmwalks are fantastic. A lot of farmers are doing amazing things behind the scenes. They are always looking at what they are doing, trying to find the best ideas, and new ideas to work inmore sustainable ways, andmore commercially viable ways.” Agrotech and digital transformation are of ever-increasing interest. “If you can’t measure it, you can’t change it,” Jane adds, saying this is a particular field where collaboration and information sharing is key. “We’re using technology to augment what we do and improve the way we understand our own farm. That is going to be essential for improvement going forward.” Catherine encourages other farmers to use their land to diversify as much as possible, seeking out cover crops that enrich the soil, encourage nature, and even help reduce fuel costs. “Our drivers tell me when they are sitting on the tractors they can feel themusing less fuel because the soil has been opened up by the roots of the crop that’s grown over winter. For someone to tell me, without prompting, that the soil feels better, is a big move. They have been very cynical about what we’re doing, but are acknowledging the way we do things is better!” It takes patience, though, adds David, saying, “I think I would have given up in the early years. You will make mistakes, and it will take time for your soil to recover without losing productivity. In the old days you’d put on fertiliser, and a week later the fields would be green – you could see the impact. Now it can take months and years before you see the benefits of the system trying to work.” Your teamhave to be fully behind your vision, David says, but, “we wouldn’t do this any other way now.” Changes desperately needed in policy For cheesemaking to continue to make inroads where sustainability is concerned, support and guidance is desperately needed fromgovernment and policymakers – especially assurances for businesses that have already cemented their eco vision. Jane says she’s seen a big focus on environmental programmes fromgovernment, but that it can be difficult for early adopters, such as Quicke’s, to access initiatives, many of which appear to be aimed at land conversion. “It feels like you’re only being rewarded for new things you’re doing. Almost like a punishment for people who’ve been doing things for good for a long time.” Jane would also like to see more ready access to scientific papers for farmers and cheesemakers. “I wish they weren’t behind a paywall. It’s difficult, often, to see the outcomes from some research, or sometimes only other people in research can access the information.” She is frustrated by what she feels is an assumption that farmers don’t want to be engaged in cutting-edge science. “A lot of farmers have come back to farming after other things, or have grown up in farming, gone off to do a degree, and brought You want to be as low input as possible on your farm, using nature in balance with your farming practice JANE QUICKE HARROGATE BLUE SHEPHERD’S PURSE Golden bodied, and matured for a minimum of 10 weeks to develop the right depth of flavour and creaminess. Winner of multiple awards worldwide. shepherdspurse.co.uk RENEGADE MONK FELTHAM’S FARM Make an impression with this powerful cheese, which covers off three different varieties, being soft, blue, and washed-rind all at the same time. 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