Speciality Food Feb/March 2024

@specialityfood 34 BY SEPTEMBER 2023 THE NUMBER OF BUSINESSES THAT BECAME B CORP DOUBLED TO 1,500 B CORPORATION W e’re seeing a seismic shift in attitudes towards sustainability as awareness of food production’s contribution to our planetary problems grows. Importantly, many working across the sector, including artisan food retailers, are striving to be part of the solution. Debate about production efficiencies and the environmental impact of different farming systems can at times feel polarised. Constructive debate about how we can best feed the population healthily and sustainably is frequently lacking. OF&G’s recent white paper evidences how increasing organic land use in England to 10% (a three-fold increase from current levels) would deliver significant environmental benefits. Total agriculture-related greenhouse gas emissions would be reduced to a level equal to the carbon sequestered by third of million acres of broadleaved woodland. In this scenario, synthetic fertiliser use would be reduced by a figure equivalent to 179,000 tonnes of ammonium nitrate. Additionally, over a million kilos of pesticide active ingredients would not be applied each year. By removing artificial inputs, our white paper also highlights multiple biodiversity improvements, such as farmland bird species increased by 35%, pollinators up by 23% and earthworm species increased by 78%. At the same time as addressing agricultural inputs, many scientists also acknowledge a pressing ROGERKERR CHIEF EXECUTIVE, ORGANIC FARMERS & GROWERS Time to take a firm and positive stance on organic need for change in our patterns of consumption. However, will big changes in diet be impossible to implement? More sustainable organic diets would involve consumption of more vegetables, more pulses, and less but better-quality meat (grass-fed and high animal welfare, for example). This would require a reduction in intensive non-ruminant (monogastric) livestock that currently are competing directly with human food sources. When coupled with organic food processing standards, which severely restrict the scope for preparing highly processed food, the evidence suggests that we could feed society well with organic farming. Our national food security also depends on reducing the enormous levels of food waste that currently exist. When it comes to achieving food security, we must have a food system that is environmentally, nutritionally and economically sustainable. Our farm shops and speciality retailers can make a valuable contribution by promoting these important messages to consumers and encouraging them to make positive changes to their shopping and consumption habits. We know that organic farming is a standard practice that already operates within planetary boundaries. There’s clear scientific evidence gathered over many years of its clear direction of travel towards a low carbon, and nature and people positive food production system. A t the height of harvest season, the fields of mint and lavender at Summerdown (producer of fine chocolate mints and teas) come alive. Butterflies and bees drift through the crops. Tiny mammals forage in the undergrowth. And birds, including the Red Listed Stone-curlew, take shelter. The Hampshire farmwas one of the first in the UK to participate in the RSPB’s Fair to Nature programme, which supports producers to grow in a way that’s mutually beneficial for wildlife, and their businesses. B Corp certified Summerdown’s ‘master of mint’ Ian is a founder member of the initiative and, says head of sales and marketing, and grandson of Summerdown creator Sir Michael Colman, its principles really do underpin the brand’s approach to sustainability. “Caring for the environment is a deeply held passion of Ian’s,” Jo says. “It’s fully integrated into our farming system.” But working this way isn’t a new thing here. “From the beginning it’s been our family approach,” Jo adds. “As we built the brand and the business on the farm, sustainability was key. We very much see ourselves as temporary stewards of the land. It was here long before us. There’s mention of the farm in the Domesday Book, and we know as long as we look after the land and care for it, it will live on long after us.” How nature will be impacted underpins every decision the team makes, with Jo pointing out Fair to Nature’s strapline as something that sticks with him: ‘without nature there is no food’. The main focus of Fair to Nature is to maintain a variety of habitats. At Summerdown there are 5-metre wildflower and wild grass margins on all fields, enabling invertebrates, pollinators and small creatures to have a place to live and feed. And Jo is proud of the amount of woodland they manage. “We’re making sure that’s maintained as much as possible as a corridor for nature to move. We see the farm as part of an ecosystem.” All the habitat-preserving measures undertaken at Summerdown are having a huge impact not only on bird and insect life, but Jo says they have noticed rare wildflowers thriving, and they’re excited to have their next plant life survey done (the last was a decade ago). One of the things he appreciates about the scheme is “that it is rooted in rigorous and verifiable scientific research and evidence, and not trying to force outcomes. Howwe work as a farm is being measured, not the outcome. We know that by creating habitats and protecting nature the outcomes are all positive.” Indoors, Jo reveals a big piece of work is continuing into rescoping the entire sustainability strategy within the business – in particular around packaging, which he says can be frustrating. “We want to move away from plastic trays, but we haven’t yet found a viable alternative that was value for money, had environmental benefits, and ease of use for the consumer.” The materials they currently use are 100% pre-recycled, and the tea range is plastic free, using wood pulp-based compounds. However Jo says they are transparent that they are not suitable for home composting and must go through a commercial composting process. More solutions, he adds, are needed within the food and drink industry to support businesses, like Summerdown, which are driven to do the right thing. “We have a wonderful opportunity in the fine food sector to inspire change,” Jo says. “The joy of being in this space is we can anticipate an alternative and are flexible enough to be able to operate in a way that can inspire customers and fellow producers.” Policy and technology just needs to catch up. SUMMERDOWN ‘Producers need to listen to and integrate with nature’ SUSTAINABLECHAMPIONS