Cheese Buyer - May 2025

a disadvantage – it was a story of quality and care. Driven by a combination of passion, determination, purpose, and place, a new generation of makers helped reclaimBritain’s place on the world cheesemap – and we’ve been proud to be part of that movement. In 2025, the cheese industry is more connected, complex, and collaborative than ever. There’s a growing emphasis on sustainability, and local food systems from regenerative farming practices and new technology. Technology and tradition now co-exist, with smart systems helping to track quality, 30 SHEPHERDS PURSE S hepherds Purse Cheeses began as a passion project in the 1980s, founded by our mum, Judy Bell MBE, a pharmacist by training before taking on the farmwith dad and raising us four children. Whenwe launched in 1989, the British cheese industry, and indeed food culture in the UK, was a very different landscape. Cheese productionwas still dominated by Cheddars and territorialsmade at scale thanks to rationing after the SecondWorldWar and the impact of milk quotas after that. However, influenced by broader movements in food, farming, and gastronomy, there was a quiet revolution beginning: one that Judy became a part of. Making cheese fromewe’smilk was rare in the UK at that time, but thankfully our venture proved to be part of a larger movement towards quality local food andmore adventurous food tastes. It seemed that whilst there were seeds being planted in the 70s, the industry began to flourish in the 1980s and 1990s as consumer tastes started to shift and government policy changes unlockedmore diverse growth. The emergence of the SlowFoodmovement, a growing interest in provenance, and an appreciation for traditional methods all helped catalyse change. Farmers’ markets then led to farmshops, more independent delis, and better cheese counters which opened up new routes tomarket. The growth of food culture and chef-led restaurants also helped shine a light on British artisan cheeses. Suddenly, being small-batch and artisanwas not can grow commercially and grow its positive impact at the same time. Human and environment health comes from taking a holistic approach rooted in regeneration and nourishment. For the speciality cheese industry more broadly, my hope is that we continue to become evenmore connected and collaborative. That small producers have a stronger collective voice, with the support they need to thrive in the face of shifting costs andmarket pressures. That we continue to protect and promote the uniqueness of what we do, not only in terms of product, but in the passion, stories and traditions that sit behind each producer. Ultimately, I hope we as an industry can continue to educate and inspire. The greater understanding people have of how cheese ismade, where it comes from, and the care and skill that goes into it, themore they will value it, as a food, as part of local culture, and as a connection to nature on their plate. provenance, and compliance, while the heart of the craft, themilk, microbes, and time remains the same. The ecosystemalso includes increasingly savvy consumers who seek transparency and taste, and retailers who understand how to champion artisan products. Our hopes for the future are rooted in a deep respect for where we’ve come fromand a clear vision for where we’re going. We want to continue growing in a way that honours our history, crafting exceptional cheese with integrity, care, and a true sense of place, supporting excellent British agriculture and the community, while embracing innovation, creativity and sustainability. We hope to lead not just through the quality and uniqueness of our cheeses, but through the values behind them: we operate and are successful thanks to the success of the whole ecosystem inwhichwe exist, and the foundation of that is nature and sustainable agriculture. We want to work together and demonstrate that a food business @specialityfood We want to continue growing in a way that honours our history, crafting exceptional cheese with integrity, care, and a true sense of place, supporting excellent British agriculture and the community, while embracing innovation, creativity and sustainability Froma farmhouse operation to internationally- renowned producer, Shepherds Purse is a leading light in the artisan cheesemission. Caroline Bell shares its story A PIONEER FOR BETTER