Cheese Buyer - May 2025

24 @specialityfood is so attentive and so skilful.” Ned explains that on a tour of the factory, the maker hadmultiple ‘tells’ from years of experience that helped him intrinsically know the cheese was beingmade correctly, from a patch of light reflected on the floor that indicated the moisture of the curd was the correct level, to the scent of green apple as the cheese ripens (a yeasty smell means it’s going too fast). It’s a masterclass in cheesemaking Ned says. Roquefort should also be in the mix when looking to France. “It has to be matured in caves in the village of Roquefort. In those caves they still use wood for shelving, and it’s all black and shiny because it’s so old – it could be 100 years old. All the time these lovely, fatty cheeses have been soaking into the wood. “They don’t need fridges, and they don’t need fans because the cracks and lines in the caves don’t reach the outside. Air seeps in and it’s naturally cool because they’re underground.” The innate flora of the caves is what informs the striking flavour of these cheeses, which can’t be mimicked in the UK. “In England the EHOwould shut these kinds of places down straight away,” Ned laughs. “There’s nothing like Roquefort. It’s completely of its own character.” I f you ask any cheesemonger today what their favourites are yes, of course, there will be a classic Cheddar, perhaps a sprinkle of newwave British artisans ... and always, always something fromEurope. A Brie that’s just started to become oozy and gooey under the rind. A scoop of Gorgonzola Dolce with sun-ripened figs. Chunks of agedManchego and olives alongside a glass of chilled white wine. Unless your ethos is to stock British only, there is huge merit in dedicating a section of your counter to Continental varieties. “I cannot imagine having a cheese shop without these cheeses,” says The Cheese Lady, Svetlana Kukharchuk. “They are staples. They are must-haves.” They (and we’re referring to the likes of Brie, Mozzarella and Parmesan) are also recognisable to shoppers, forming an essential ‘stepping stone’ in fine food retail. Stocking ‘the classics’ gives new customers somewhere to start from, something they can understand. It’s the retailer’s job to take them on the next part of their journey, making suggestions that lean into their existing preferences. Heritage is another reason to keep these cheeses in your wheelhouse, adds Svetlana, pointing to the fact that although we try to mimic certain types here, it’s the terroir and historical processes that give many cheeses of France, Italy, British cheese may be continually rising in popularity, but there will always be a place in the heart of counters for Continental varieties, say cheesemongers A SLICEOF EUROPE Spain, Switzerland and beyond their authentic, delicious taste. “These cheeses have to come from the land where they were born to give their best expression. It is also so important for us to help the people who create these cheeses so they can carry on with their traditions,” she says. Ned Palmer of The Cheese Tasting Co thinks British consumers are still attracted to what’s often coined as ‘fancy cheese’ (referring to those fromEurope). It would be unimaginable, he says, to not stock a Brie, Feta or Parmesan. “The main thing for me, is it’s not untrue that France is the centre of excellence for cheese. Why should you stock it? Because it’s really really good.” Vive la France Food writer Ned spent months across the pond for his most recent, award-winning book A Cheesemonger’s Tour de France , and it cemented, for him, that the country really is at the epicentre of fine cheesemaking. If there’s one cheese he cannot live without, and one he suggests cheesemongers should always have in stock, no matter what, it’s Brie. And for him, it’s Dongé Brie de Meaux that tops the cheesy charts. “It’s got this incredible golden paste. They get really goodmilk and they really treat the curd well, so you’re not losing any of that butterfat,” he explains. “The process of maturing All eyes on Italy Svetlana thinks the cheeses of Italy deserve more of a spotlight, and she’s always adding new varieties to her stocklist. La Tur and Taleggio are enduring favourites, as is Pecorino Sardo. “There are actually so many different varieties of Pecorino,” she explains. “Sometimes people forget it’s a type of cheese, rather than one specific cheese. There are many hundreds of them in Italy. We stock Pecorino Sardo because it’s very complex and can be used in cooking or for general enjoyment with a glass of wine.” Fiore Sardo strikes a chord with customers too. “It’s a more ancient variety of Pecorino fromSardinia that’s lightly smoked. It’s very nice.” Gorgonzola, of course, is a must-have, and if you have space (Svetlana doesn’t, she laments) get yourself a big whole scooping variety to bring added theatre and excitement to the experience for shoppers. As a wild card, Svetlana says Italy’s ‘drunken cheeses’ (those bathed in wine) are incredibly delicious and sell well throughout the year. Ubriaco Rosso is a fruity little number, soaked in red wine. “And another super special one is a blue cheese, Basajo. Think of a nice